First of all, I picked a great day to visit Luss. The weather was perfect! And the ride over was lovely. I was particularly enchanted by the view of the ride to Glasgow.
On the way to Glasgow, passing Burnside
A year ago I made a short stop at Luss, It was a little peek into the village. This day trip was to spend some quality time by the water. This pretty village is located within the Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park in the Argyll and Bute region. Specifically on the western shore of Loch Lomond.
As I hopped off the bus and passed the Loch Lomond Arms hotel, I could see the village.
Loch Lomond Arms Hotel
The main street to the village is adorned with quaint pretty cottages and shops. I could not help but think that there must be a code in the village. All the cottages had well maintained flower pots and gardens. It was all picture-perfect. Not a rebel between them and hence my thought.
Luss Village Homes and Shops
I walked through the homes and shops, with one thought in mind. The water. The road led me to the primary pier, the Luss Pier. I was surprised at how busy it was. I don’t know why I was surprised as it is a popular spot but as I decided to visit on a weekday, I had assumed there would be fewer people present. I was wrong. I guess a lot of people were on holiday.
Loch Lomond at Luss Village
Loch Lomond is beautiful. I have visited the loch a few times but at different access points and each time the loch has been stunning. Today it felt like the playground for children and adults alike. I think many visitors were relatively local, mainly from Glasgow. It makes sense that this would be their summer playground. Having said that many visitors were also present from beyond that geographical scope.
Loch Lomond at Luss Village
In between short spurts of reading, I did a lot of water-watching, hill-watching and people-watching . I wondered about the history of the place which led me to look it up. I found the following:
Around 1,500 years ago, an Irish missionary, St Kessog, arrived at Loch Lomond, bringing Christianity to the area. At the time Luss was called Clachan Dhu (the dark village) because it lay in the shadow of the surrounding hills. St Kessog was martyred and his body embalmed with sweet herbs. Legend has it that the herbs grew and covered his grave, providing a new name for the village – lus is Gaelic for herb. The present church was built in 1875 but the graveyard is much older. The earliest stones date from the 7th or 8th century and includes an 11th century Viking hogback grave. Inside there’s a lovely ceiling made from Scots pine rafters and some beautiful Victorian stained-glass windows.
I found the history intriguing. I love names that have meaning. “Lus” means herb; this was my learning point of the day.
After spending time on the water, it was time to walk the woods. I wanted to learn more about the church and adjacent footpaths.
Luss Parish Church Grounds
The grounds from the water to the woods of the church grounds were lovely. A lush setting and a tranquil trail. Perfect. The burial grounds had a premium location, overlooking the loch. The church was built in 1875 and is dedicated to Saint Kessog.
It was all delightful.
Woods near Luss Village Parish Church
After a good walk, I decided that a reward was in order. Refreshments. Wine at the Loch Lomond Arms hotel on their patio. A fitting punctuation to the day.
The harbour was a lovely introduction to the obvious buzz of the town. It instilled a growing excitement to roam some more. As I walked along the river to Kirkcudbright Bridge, I saw a sign labelled: Dee Walk. I took that as a signal to a] explore the bridge and b] walk the Dee.
Kirkcudbright Bridge
Views of Kirkcudbright Bridge
The Kirkcudbright Bridge [also known as the Dee Bridge] crosses the River Dee. The bridge was built in 1926, replacing an earlier iron bridge that was built in 1868. Apparently, the former bridge had a similar appearance, with 6 spans instead of 5. I learned that the current bridge retained the former ornate, cast iron lamps which can be seen at the end of each span. Before 1868, the river could only be crossed by ferry.
I walked the bridge and stopped midway to get a view of the entire harbour. There are times I wished I was a little taller. This was one of those times, only so that I could take advantage of the prospect from a higher view point. But instead I had to take delight through an opening on the bridge. It was good to see the harbour this way. I was also lucky for the still water of the river as it became a reflective mirror for the town and harbour.
Dee Walk
After paying homage to the bridge, the Dee Walk was next on my list. The Dee Walk was well signposted and the path itself beckoned those near to follow it, so that is what I did. Without hesitation, my walk began. I was intrigued by what looked like abandoned boats along the first lap of the walk. It conjured up all kinds of shipwreck stories. Okay, they weren’t exactly ships but it did stimulate my imagination. I had to take a few photos because of that.
Abandon Boats on the Banks of the River Dee
I continued the walk along the river. The water appeared muddy, wide and quite low. The banks near Kirkcudbright were well-maintained and offered plenty of seating to admire the view.
Views of the River Dee in Kirkcudbright
As the river curved just outside the town, I arrived at a wooden bridge where I saw a signpost for Tongland Bridge. Why not? I extended my walk to Tongland Bridge. The footpath continued along the top of a narrow embankment. I have since learned that the embankment protected the adjacent fields from flooding.
Views along the River Dee
Mudflats of the River Dee
The River Dee is tidal and it was low-tide when I did this walk, All along the river I could see the exposed mudflats, especially at the halfway mark.
Tongland Bridge
After walking for about 3 miles, I climbed the stairs of the river bank to arrive at Tongland Bridge.
Approaching the stairs to Tongland Bridge
Top of Tongland Bridge
Tongland bridge was built by Thomas Telford and completed in 1808. With its large masonry arch, it is considered to be one of Telford’s best Scottish bridges. The river rises and falls by over 6 metres with the tides. Therefore, the bridge had to be built with additional arches on either side to ease the passage of the water at high tide.
I was a little challenged to get a view of the bridge in its entirety, but the section I was able to capture looked rather grand. It looked like a bridge that would not appear out of place surrounding a castle. But perhaps that is my imagination going awry, yet again.
Views from the Top of Tongland Bridge
Views of Tongland Bridge from the river bank
Further up the river I also saw the remains of the old railway bridge. The old railway crossed the river and the road on the other side of the river.
The Kirkcudbright Railway was a branch line linking Kirkcudbright to Castle Douglas and onward to Dumfries. It opened in 1864 and closed in 1965. [Source Kirkcudbright History Society]
Remains of the Old Railway
Return Walk to Kirkcudbright
Having walked the river banks to Tongland Bridge, I decided to return to Kirkcudbright by the street. I was drawn to a neighbouring ranch and the surrounding farms which undoubtedly swayed my decision.
Dusk On The Water
My walk ended where it started, on Kirkcudbridge Bridge and the Harbour. But now it was dusk. It seems fitting to mark the end of this little adventure with a photo of the reflective mirror at dusk by the water. It was a pretty sight.
Views of Kirkcudbright Harbour at Dusk
Views of Kirkcudbright Bridge at Dusk
At dusk, everything sparkled. A great way to end the day.
I have often passed through Moffat but this time it was different. This time I hopped off the bus for a wee visit. I am exploring South West Scotland and on this occasion, Moffat was a must for me. That is the great thing about bus journeys, you get to enjoy the view stress-free and make notes for your next excursion.
Moffat is located in Dumfries and Galloway, within the Southern Uplands, just across the border of the Scottish Borders.
Entering Moffat
I was intrigued by this town surrounded by hills as it reminded me of my home when I lived in Canada; it has a similar setting. And so it follows that I had to investigate.
As I arrived at the town centre, I was faced with Moffat’s famous ram. The Moffat Ram bronze statue. The statue gives a sense of pride and is a symbol of the town’s rich history of sheep rearing. You really cannot miss it. I quickly googled it to learn more and found the following:
The powerful-looking bronze ram sculpture and drinking fountain were commissioned in 1875 by a local businessman William Colvin as a gift to his native town to commemorate its long association with sheep farming and the wool trade. The artist chosen to undertake the work was a prolific and celebrated Victorian Scottish sculptor named William Brodie, whose most famous work is the statue of a faithful dog, Greyfriars Bobby in Edinburgh. According to legend, at the unveiling of the statue, a local farmer exclaimed, “It has nae lugs!” which, in English, translates to “It has no ears!” He was right. [Atlas Obscura]
How could I not pay my respects to this work? This historic art piece is surrounded by a vibrant town centre. I couldn’t wait to discover its gems. But first things first, I went for a wee lunch at a restaurant adjacent to the ram.
I was intrigued by all the architecture that circled the high street. I could tell that this was once a prosperous community.
I learned that as well as sheep rearing, the town was also a tourist resort destination in its day. Visitors would come for the healing power of the town spa and water. The healing properties of the water were thought to be due to the sulphurous and saline properties and iron springs. During the Victorian era, luxury hotels were built to accommodate the ever-increasing tourism to the town which I believe is reflected in the buildings that lined the town centre today.
Hotels and Restaurants in Moffat Town Centre
As I walked the town, I could not help but enjoy all the colourful homes with the perfect backdrop. The hills.
I was intrigued by the many town walks that were signposted and readily accessible.
I have since learned that Moffat is known for welcoming and encouraging walkers to its fair community with its informative bulletins. From my perspective, I had to explore at least a couple of those walks. In fact, I ended up doing four.
Public Post for Moffat Town Walks
1. Waterside Walk
I love walking beside water so this was a given that I would walk the Waterside Walk. I headed to Station Park where I knew there was a small loch and where this particular walk began. Station Park use to be the location of the town’s railway station. [Caledonian Railway] which was built in 1883 and closed in 1964.
Station Park:Remains of the Railway Bridge
Station Park: Pond
As I walked around the pond/loch I could make out the remains of the railway bridge and from that, I could make out where the railway line ran. Today the location is a well-maintained picturesque park. An excellent pitstop. I sat for a coffee before making my way to Annan River for the walk.
The following information was posted about the walk:
The Annan Water walk includes both the locally known 1st and 2nd Watersides which follow the Annan Water northwards. Distance: 4.6km/2.9m.
There is something about the sound of water that is so soothing. It just settles the mind. I have no idea how it does that but it is very calming. With that, the walk started on a high as I listened to the burbling water of the River Annan. It was nice. If ever there was a reason to slow down and take in one’s surroundings, it was this.
Views Along Waterside Path
As I walked along the river, I noticed the seating along the way and that each seat seem to be “strategically” placed at beautiful panoramic views of the town and neighbouring countryside.
2. Gallow Hill Walk
I could not visit Moffat and not attempt to walk one of its hills. So Gallow Hill it was. Here is the description that was posted on the Town’s public bulletin board:
The Gallow Hill is the wooded Hill behind the town. The walk follows the waterside then goes through the Hope Johnstone Park and up the steps (locally known as the White Steps). From there turn left into Beech Wood, climb up through the wood until you reach the double gates and when you are through the second gate you are then on Gallow Hill. Turn left and follow the track around the circular route. Distance: 5.4km/3.3m.
So off I went to make my way through Beech Woods towards Gallow Hill. Again, I loved that there were seats dotted along the path. There were also many peek-a-boo views of the town and neighbouring farms.
Beech Woods
I continued the walk passed the gate until I got to the Gallow Hill posting. It was such a peaceful stroll. I was surprised by how tranquil it was. It was easy to forget that the town was adjacent to the trail.
Beech Woods
The path was well maintained and catered for varied abilities and group walks. After walking for about 30 minutes, I reached a community seating area and the second gate, the entrance to Gallow Hill.
I was thankful to see a map of the hill. I decided to walk the outer perimeter going north.
Views from Gallow Hill
It was a gentle climb and again with lots of seats along the way. What lovely views! It is said that the view is always better on the high road. Well, this was a clear example that this is indeed the case.
I spent quite some time on that hill. I blamed it on the seats and views.
3. Well Path Walk
For this walk, I followed the direction of one of the signposts labelled: Well Path. It was not listed on the town’s official bulletin board. As I stared up at what looked like an overgrown stair path, I was somewhat hesitant to begin. However, curiosity got the better of me and I started the climb.
Views from Well Path
Well Path
I sometimes think I am odd, as I find it thrilling to walk paths and wonder where they may lead, or what view it might lead me to. This path was that. I took long, deep breaths of pure delight at each stop.
4. Tank Wood Walk
As I ended Well Path walk, I saw the sign for Tank Wood Walk. The walk was a natural continuation of Well Path. The following description of the walk was posted:
This walk follows the Annan Water then cuts across the northern part of the town and follows a well defined track along the southern slopes of the Gallow Hill to the Tank wood. Distance: 4.5 km/2.8m.
Views from Tank Wood
Tank Wood Path
Another delightful walk with many views but with not so many seats LOL. And as with many wooded areas, the tranquillity was therapeutically serene.
I learned the following about Tank Woods:
During the Victorian era, the high demand for the healing powers of the spas led to the water being piped down from the well to a tank in Tank Wood and onto a specially built bath house in the town centre.
Unfortunately, I did not see the tank but that just means I will have it on my list for when I visit next.
5. Final Town Walk
As I left the woods, I found myself in a pretty neighbourhood. I took a slow walk back to the centre. I had covered a lot of ground in two days which is a reflection of how much Moffat has to offer.
This was so worth the visit and I certainly will return to experience more of Moffat’s offerings. I smiled as I left the town, as it felt like even the sheep were saying goodbye.
Well, this post turned out to be much longer than I had originally planned but I hope you felt it was worth it. My next stops are Dumfries and Castle Douglas
The Fife coast is truly breathtaking. After exploring Anstruther, I decided to continue my walk to Pittenweem.
After all, it was only one mile east.
So off I trotted. It was a beautiful walk until the path suddenly ended and it was not Pittenweem.
It was a golf course.
I had to walk across the golf course to continue the walk to the neighbouring village. It was not what I had expected but I was lucky. It was a beautiful day and once I crossed the course without incident, the rest of the walk was stress-free. After a short stroll on the major road, I made my way to the footpaths of Pittenweem village.
As I arrived at Pittenweem harbour I could not help but notice the difference to Anstruther. It was certainly smaller and it felt more like a commercial working harbour. It was also significantly calmer. Of course, I had to walk on the pier.
Standing on the pier gave a lovely view of the village with its predominantly white wash storefronts on the harbour perimeter.
Pittenweem Harbour
As I stood on the pier, I did not get the panoramic views of Anstruther, [at least not with my height] however, I did have a pleasing viewpoint of the harbour and village.
Pittenweem is a colourful village of winding, narrow streets. It has a wonderful residential waterfront. I walked the entire length of the village’s coastal path.
It was a short visit but certainly worth the walk and stop.
It’s been just over a year since I visited Anstruther and so I thought a trip to that village was overdue. In fact, I want to do a few more trips to the East Neuk coast but that will be for another time and post.
With that thought, I made the trip to Anstruther in June. As I hopped off the bus at Dreel Bridge, I decided to explore a bit of the town before heading to the harbour.
View from Dreel Bridge
High Street West
Map of Anstruther Town centre
What a beautifully kept and colourful town. As I explored the streets, I wondered why I hadn’t done it before. It seems as if I was welcomed by a rainbow of buildings. It was nice. I walked the High Street and the Esplanade.
Walking the Esplanade
Then I took the opportunity to walk the grounds of the community halls, Dreel Halls.
Dreel Halls
Dreel Halls are also known as Anstruther Wester Parish Church. In 1243, a church on this site was dedicated to St. Nicholas. The current structure consists of a sixteenth-century tower and steeple and a mid-nineteenth-century main room, which probably incorporates material from the original medieval church. Today, the church is used as a public hall as part of Dreel Halls.
Medieval Coffin
Near the church are a protected medieval coffin and an early 17th-century grave slab. With the light bulbs framing it, I assumed that it is illuminated at night. I think that that would be a little spooky to see.
As I walked around south of the building, I entered the graveyard and a lookout point.
This was Anstruther Wester Churchyard which is also known as the Commonwealth War burial grounds.
The graveyard contained several 17th-century memorials. (Reference)
What a serene location. I sat there for a while, taking in the stream, beach and surrounding structures.
View from the graveyard
Upon leaving the yard I noticed the design on the side of a house on Elizabeth Place. It was a shell mural. I admired the creativity. It was well done.
Shell Mural
Elizabeth Place to Dreel Bridge
The Bank Hotel, High Street
I continued to walk along the High street as I made my way towards the harbour.
I finally made it to the water. What a vibrant harbour. Although I understood that there were a few commercial boats docked at the harbour, I sensed that it was more of a recreational harbour.
I was drawn to walk the piers. It offered lovely views of the village.
The day was picture-perfect.
Chalmers lighthouse
I continued walking towards the lighthouse which offered amazing views of the boats.
Given the size of the village, I thought it was a large harbour. There was a whole social vibe here.
I stopped at one of the harbour bistros for a drink and to take in the scene that seemed to be unfolding before my eyes. I also did a quick search to see what Visit Scotland had to say about the village.
Anstruther is a charming fishing village in the East Neuk of Fife, popular with day-trippers and holidaymakers. Located south of St Andrews, Anstruther is the largest in a string of pretty, old-fashioned fishing villages along the stretch of Fife coast known as the East Neuk.
Visit Scotland
“Daytrippers and Holidaymakers”. Yes, that is what I had sensed. The social vibe was evident.
After gazing at both my drink and those passing by, I took one more final stroll along the pier. I looked out to the horizon beyond, east towards Pittenweem which would be my next stop.
It had been a while since I walked the Granton-Cramond trail. So it was time for a visit. I know I have said this before in a recent post but I have this need to say it again. Granton’s waterfront looks great!
Granton Harbour
This walk started at Granton Harbour and then west along the water’s edge towards Silverknowes.
Although the day started off overcast, as it progressed the sun came out and there were blue skies all around. Lucky! On this walk, I decided to change it up a little and follow part of the trail through the woods
There is something calming about being among trees and especially those that line a waterfront. Curiosity got the better of me as I climbed a steep set of stairs that seemed to beckon me.
To my delight, it led me to an elevated view of the coast.
I slowly retraced my footsteps back through the woods. This small detour gave a whole new perspective of the landscape.
It is truly a wonder that all this is part of Edinburgh. We are lucky to have such varied scenes that we can enjoy.
Breathtaking. A lovely walk. As I approached Cramond Beach, I could see clear across the water to Fife.
Cramond Beach
Cramond Village
As always, after I completed the walk, I wondered what took me so long to return.
