I was taking a leisurely walk along the coast from Inverkip to Wemyss Bay and as I was approaching Wemyss Bay, I picked up my pace. I remembered once seeing a photo of the Wemyss Bay station. Suddenly a leisurely walk, turned into a march because now my walk had an additional purpose.
Wemyss Bay Station [Exterior]
As I approached it I remembered why I had made a mental note to see it. Look at the photos! It is marvellous. What an architectural treasure. I noticed the exterior plaque and it described the following:
An attractive and effective 1903 facility, by the Caledonian Railway, for the rapid-shipment of holiday-makers and their luggage.
The description of “rapid shipment of holiday-makers” made me laugh. Our penmanship has changed a little since the early 1900s. I quickly searched for more information:
Wemyss Bay railway station serves the village of Wemyss Bay, Inverclyde, Scotland. The station is a terminus on the Inverclyde Line, about 26 miles (42 km) west of Glasgow Central. The station incorporates the Caledonian MacBrayne ferry terminal connecting mainland Scotland to Rothesay on the Isle of Bute. [Source Wikipedia]
With so many stations having been closed down, it was good to see this historical example still in operation and I think we can all agree that it is indeed an impressive structure. However, there is also the interior.
The interior is nothing less than magnificent! My eyes were immediately drawn to the ceiling with its lattice work of steel and glass.
Wemyss Bay Railway Station [Interior]
It was truly mesmerising. I walked around the station ticket office and then along the platform. I slowly noticed another corridor. It was the path to the ferry terminal. I could not deny the craftmanship of design and build.
Wemyss Bay Station [To Ferry Terminal]
As I searched for more information, I learned the following:
Construction of the railway began in late 1862. It was a single track to Greenock. This was to connect to Clyde steamer services for Rothesay, Largs, Millport, and Isle of Cumbrae. As mentioned above, the station was designed by James Miller in 1903 for the Caledonian Railway. In Britain’s 100 Best Railway Stations by Simon Jenkins, Wemyss Bay station was one of only ten to be awarded five stars, and was the station photographed on the front cover. The station won the 2023 World Cup of Stations, organised by the Rail Delivery Group.
It was no wonder that I had made a mental note.
The entire visit and experience had a way of transporting me to another time. It was certainly worth the march and visit.
When I arrived at Kirkcudbright, I immediately noticed the castle. In fact, everyone notices the castle! As we drove down the main street in Kirkcudbright, the prominence of Maclellan’s castle cannot be questioned. It dominates the town centre’s skyline.
MacLellan’s Castle
MacLellan’s Castle
MacLellan’s Castle is now a ruin but was once a 16th-century tower house and residence of the MacLellan family. It was built by the family to demonstrate nothing other than their wealth. It puts a whole new meaning to the term ”if you got it, flaunt it”. I think that objective was met. Adjacent to the castle is Kirkcudbright war memorial.
Kirkcudbright war memorial commemorates the men of the Scottish town of Kirkcudbright killed during the First and Second World Wars. It is situated in front of the 16th-century MacLellan’s Castle and shows a seated warrior with a sword and shield with a sleeping child on his knee. The memorial was designed by George Henry Paulin and erected in 1921 to commemorate the men lost during the First World War. Additional plaques were added following the Second World War. Source: Wikipedia
MacLellan’s Castle is like a homing beacon. Regardless of where you are in the town, you can be assured of the direction of the town centre by finding the castle. It is an iconic structure which symbolises the town’s rich and colourful history.
Kirkcudbright Castle
Almost hidden within the town, there is the ancient site of the 12th Century Kirkcudbright Castle. It is located on the banks of the River Dee [now Castledykes Road].
There is a plaque describing what once was an important historical structure. The plaque reads:
In 1300, King Edward I of England launched an invasion of south-west Scotland, his army marching here John Comyn and the Earl of Buchan, whose sheriffdom had been based at Kirkcudbright, attempted to make a deal with Edward, but were rebuffed. After his stay here, Edward and his forces continued their westerly progress. The Earl of Buchan regathered his forces and faced the English across the estuary on the River Cree.
Other than these few small remnants of once a grand structure, the ancient castle grounds are a compilation of mounds with long sweeping grass that certainly fills the imagination.
The harbour was a lovely introduction to the obvious buzz of the town. It instilled a growing excitement to roam some more. As I walked along the river to Kirkcudbright Bridge, I saw a sign labelled: Dee Walk. I took that as a signal to a] explore the bridge and b] walk the Dee.
Kirkcudbright Bridge
Views of Kirkcudbright Bridge
The Kirkcudbright Bridge [also known as the Dee Bridge] crosses the River Dee. The bridge was built in 1926, replacing an earlier iron bridge that was built in 1868. Apparently, the former bridge had a similar appearance, with 6 spans instead of 5. I learned that the current bridge retained the former ornate, cast iron lamps which can be seen at the end of each span. Before 1868, the river could only be crossed by ferry.
I walked the bridge and stopped midway to get a view of the entire harbour. There are times I wished I was a little taller. This was one of those times, only so that I could take advantage of the prospect from a higher view point. But instead I had to take delight through an opening on the bridge. It was good to see the harbour this way. I was also lucky for the still water of the river as it became a reflective mirror for the town and harbour.
Dee Walk
After paying homage to the bridge, the Dee Walk was next on my list. The Dee Walk was well signposted and the path itself beckoned those near to follow it, so that is what I did. Without hesitation, my walk began. I was intrigued by what looked like abandoned boats along the first lap of the walk. It conjured up all kinds of shipwreck stories. Okay, they weren’t exactly ships but it did stimulate my imagination. I had to take a few photos because of that.
Abandon Boats on the Banks of the River Dee
I continued the walk along the river. The water appeared muddy, wide and quite low. The banks near Kirkcudbright were well-maintained and offered plenty of seating to admire the view.
Views of the River Dee in Kirkcudbright
As the river curved just outside the town, I arrived at a wooden bridge where I saw a signpost for Tongland Bridge. Why not? I extended my walk to Tongland Bridge. The footpath continued along the top of a narrow embankment. I have since learned that the embankment protected the adjacent fields from flooding.
Views along the River Dee
Mudflats of the River Dee
The River Dee is tidal and it was low-tide when I did this walk, All along the river I could see the exposed mudflats, especially at the halfway mark.
Tongland Bridge
After walking for about 3 miles, I climbed the stairs of the river bank to arrive at Tongland Bridge.
Approaching the stairs to Tongland Bridge
Top of Tongland Bridge
Tongland bridge was built by Thomas Telford and completed in 1808. With its large masonry arch, it is considered to be one of Telford’s best Scottish bridges. The river rises and falls by over 6 metres with the tides. Therefore, the bridge had to be built with additional arches on either side to ease the passage of the water at high tide.
I was a little challenged to get a view of the bridge in its entirety, but the section I was able to capture looked rather grand. It looked like a bridge that would not appear out of place surrounding a castle. But perhaps that is my imagination going awry, yet again.
Views from the Top of Tongland Bridge
Views of Tongland Bridge from the river bank
Further up the river I also saw the remains of the old railway bridge. The old railway crossed the river and the road on the other side of the river.
The Kirkcudbright Railway was a branch line linking Kirkcudbright to Castle Douglas and onward to Dumfries. It opened in 1864 and closed in 1965. [Source Kirkcudbright History Society]
Remains of the Old Railway
Return Walk to Kirkcudbright
Having walked the river banks to Tongland Bridge, I decided to return to Kirkcudbright by the street. I was drawn to a neighbouring ranch and the surrounding farms which undoubtedly swayed my decision.
Dusk On The Water
My walk ended where it started, on Kirkcudbridge Bridge and the Harbour. But now it was dusk. It seems fitting to mark the end of this little adventure with a photo of the reflective mirror at dusk by the water. It was a pretty sight.
Views of Kirkcudbright Harbour at Dusk
Views of Kirkcudbright Bridge at Dusk
At dusk, everything sparkled. A great way to end the day.
I have often passed through Moffat but this time it was different. This time I hopped off the bus for a wee visit. I am exploring South West Scotland and on this occasion, Moffat was a must for me. That is the great thing about bus journeys, you get to enjoy the view stress-free and make notes for your next excursion.
Moffat is located in Dumfries and Galloway, within the Southern Uplands, just across the border of the Scottish Borders.
Entering Moffat
I was intrigued by this town surrounded by hills as it reminded me of my home when I lived in Canada; it has a similar setting. And so it follows that I had to investigate.
As I arrived at the town centre, I was faced with Moffat’s famous ram. The Moffat Ram bronze statue. The statue gives a sense of pride and is a symbol of the town’s rich history of sheep rearing. You really cannot miss it. I quickly googled it to learn more and found the following:
The powerful-looking bronze ram sculpture and drinking fountain were commissioned in 1875 by a local businessman William Colvin as a gift to his native town to commemorate its long association with sheep farming and the wool trade. The artist chosen to undertake the work was a prolific and celebrated Victorian Scottish sculptor named William Brodie, whose most famous work is the statue of a faithful dog, Greyfriars Bobby in Edinburgh. According to legend, at the unveiling of the statue, a local farmer exclaimed, “It has nae lugs!” which, in English, translates to “It has no ears!” He was right. [Atlas Obscura]
How could I not pay my respects to this work? This historic art piece is surrounded by a vibrant town centre. I couldn’t wait to discover its gems. But first things first, I went for a wee lunch at a restaurant adjacent to the ram.
I was intrigued by all the architecture that circled the high street. I could tell that this was once a prosperous community.
I learned that as well as sheep rearing, the town was also a tourist resort destination in its day. Visitors would come for the healing power of the town spa and water. The healing properties of the water were thought to be due to the sulphurous and saline properties and iron springs. During the Victorian era, luxury hotels were built to accommodate the ever-increasing tourism to the town which I believe is reflected in the buildings that lined the town centre today.
Hotels and Restaurants in Moffat Town Centre
As I walked the town, I could not help but enjoy all the colourful homes with the perfect backdrop. The hills.
I was intrigued by the many town walks that were signposted and readily accessible.
I have since learned that Moffat is known for welcoming and encouraging walkers to its fair community with its informative bulletins. From my perspective, I had to explore at least a couple of those walks. In fact, I ended up doing four.
Public Post for Moffat Town Walks
1. Waterside Walk
I love walking beside water so this was a given that I would walk the Waterside Walk. I headed to Station Park where I knew there was a small loch and where this particular walk began. Station Park use to be the location of the town’s railway station. [Caledonian Railway] which was built in 1883 and closed in 1964.
Station Park:Remains of the Railway Bridge
Station Park: Pond
As I walked around the pond/loch I could make out the remains of the railway bridge and from that, I could make out where the railway line ran. Today the location is a well-maintained picturesque park. An excellent pitstop. I sat for a coffee before making my way to Annan River for the walk.
The following information was posted about the walk:
The Annan Water walk includes both the locally known 1st and 2nd Watersides which follow the Annan Water northwards. Distance: 4.6km/2.9m.
There is something about the sound of water that is so soothing. It just settles the mind. I have no idea how it does that but it is very calming. With that, the walk started on a high as I listened to the burbling water of the River Annan. It was nice. If ever there was a reason to slow down and take in one’s surroundings, it was this.
Views Along Waterside Path
As I walked along the river, I noticed the seating along the way and that each seat seem to be “strategically” placed at beautiful panoramic views of the town and neighbouring countryside.
2. Gallow Hill Walk
I could not visit Moffat and not attempt to walk one of its hills. So Gallow Hill it was. Here is the description that was posted on the Town’s public bulletin board:
The Gallow Hill is the wooded Hill behind the town. The walk follows the waterside then goes through the Hope Johnstone Park and up the steps (locally known as the White Steps). From there turn left into Beech Wood, climb up through the wood until you reach the double gates and when you are through the second gate you are then on Gallow Hill. Turn left and follow the track around the circular route. Distance: 5.4km/3.3m.
So off I went to make my way through Beech Woods towards Gallow Hill. Again, I loved that there were seats dotted along the path. There were also many peek-a-boo views of the town and neighbouring farms.
Beech Woods
I continued the walk passed the gate until I got to the Gallow Hill posting. It was such a peaceful stroll. I was surprised by how tranquil it was. It was easy to forget that the town was adjacent to the trail.
Beech Woods
The path was well maintained and catered for varied abilities and group walks. After walking for about 30 minutes, I reached a community seating area and the second gate, the entrance to Gallow Hill.
I was thankful to see a map of the hill. I decided to walk the outer perimeter going north.
Views from Gallow Hill
It was a gentle climb and again with lots of seats along the way. What lovely views! It is said that the view is always better on the high road. Well, this was a clear example that this is indeed the case.
I spent quite some time on that hill. I blamed it on the seats and views.
3. Well Path Walk
For this walk, I followed the direction of one of the signposts labelled: Well Path. It was not listed on the town’s official bulletin board. As I stared up at what looked like an overgrown stair path, I was somewhat hesitant to begin. However, curiosity got the better of me and I started the climb.
Views from Well Path
Well Path
I sometimes think I am odd, as I find it thrilling to walk paths and wonder where they may lead, or what view it might lead me to. This path was that. I took long, deep breaths of pure delight at each stop.
4. Tank Wood Walk
As I ended Well Path walk, I saw the sign for Tank Wood Walk. The walk was a natural continuation of Well Path. The following description of the walk was posted:
This walk follows the Annan Water then cuts across the northern part of the town and follows a well defined track along the southern slopes of the Gallow Hill to the Tank wood. Distance: 4.5 km/2.8m.
Views from Tank Wood
Tank Wood Path
Another delightful walk with many views but with not so many seats LOL. And as with many wooded areas, the tranquillity was therapeutically serene.
I learned the following about Tank Woods:
During the Victorian era, the high demand for the healing powers of the spas led to the water being piped down from the well to a tank in Tank Wood and onto a specially built bath house in the town centre.
Unfortunately, I did not see the tank but that just means I will have it on my list for when I visit next.
5. Final Town Walk
As I left the woods, I found myself in a pretty neighbourhood. I took a slow walk back to the centre. I had covered a lot of ground in two days which is a reflection of how much Moffat has to offer.
This was so worth the visit and I certainly will return to experience more of Moffat’s offerings. I smiled as I left the town, as it felt like even the sheep were saying goodbye.
Well, this post turned out to be much longer than I had originally planned but I hope you felt it was worth it. My next stops are Dumfries and Castle Douglas
It’s been just over a year since I visited Anstruther and so I thought a trip to that village was overdue. In fact, I want to do a few more trips to the East Neuk coast but that will be for another time and post.
With that thought, I made the trip to Anstruther in June. As I hopped off the bus at Dreel Bridge, I decided to explore a bit of the town before heading to the harbour.
View from Dreel Bridge
High Street West
Map of Anstruther Town centre
What a beautifully kept and colourful town. As I explored the streets, I wondered why I hadn’t done it before. It seems as if I was welcomed by a rainbow of buildings. It was nice. I walked the High Street and the Esplanade.
Walking the Esplanade
Then I took the opportunity to walk the grounds of the community halls, Dreel Halls.
Dreel Halls
Dreel Halls are also known as Anstruther Wester Parish Church. In 1243, a church on this site was dedicated to St. Nicholas. The current structure consists of a sixteenth-century tower and steeple and a mid-nineteenth-century main room, which probably incorporates material from the original medieval church. Today, the church is used as a public hall as part of Dreel Halls.
Medieval Coffin
Near the church are a protected medieval coffin and an early 17th-century grave slab. With the light bulbs framing it, I assumed that it is illuminated at night. I think that that would be a little spooky to see.
As I walked around south of the building, I entered the graveyard and a lookout point.
This was Anstruther Wester Churchyard which is also known as the Commonwealth War burial grounds.
The graveyard contained several 17th-century memorials. (Reference)
What a serene location. I sat there for a while, taking in the stream, beach and surrounding structures.
View from the graveyard
Upon leaving the yard I noticed the design on the side of a house on Elizabeth Place. It was a shell mural. I admired the creativity. It was well done.
Shell Mural
Elizabeth Place to Dreel Bridge
The Bank Hotel, High Street
I continued to walk along the High street as I made my way towards the harbour.
I finally made it to the water. What a vibrant harbour. Although I understood that there were a few commercial boats docked at the harbour, I sensed that it was more of a recreational harbour.
I was drawn to walk the piers. It offered lovely views of the village.
The day was picture-perfect.
Chalmers lighthouse
I continued walking towards the lighthouse which offered amazing views of the boats.
Given the size of the village, I thought it was a large harbour. There was a whole social vibe here.
I stopped at one of the harbour bistros for a drink and to take in the scene that seemed to be unfolding before my eyes. I also did a quick search to see what Visit Scotland had to say about the village.
Anstruther is a charming fishing village in the East Neuk of Fife, popular with day-trippers and holidaymakers. Located south of St Andrews, Anstruther is the largest in a string of pretty, old-fashioned fishing villages along the stretch of Fife coast known as the East Neuk.
Visit Scotland
“Daytrippers and Holidaymakers”. Yes, that is what I had sensed. The social vibe was evident.
After gazing at both my drink and those passing by, I took one more final stroll along the pier. I looked out to the horizon beyond, east towards Pittenweem which would be my next stop.
