The Fife coast is truly breathtaking. After exploring Anstruther, I decided to continue my walk to Pittenweem.
After all, it was only one mile east.
So off I trotted. It was a beautiful walk until the path suddenly ended and it was not Pittenweem.
It was a golf course.
I had to walk across the golf course to continue the walk to the neighbouring village. It was not what I had expected but I was lucky. It was a beautiful day and once I crossed the course without incident, the rest of the walk was stress-free. After a short stroll on the major road, I made my way to the footpaths of Pittenweem village.
As I arrived at Pittenweem harbour I could not help but notice the difference to Anstruther. It was certainly smaller and it felt more like a commercial working harbour. It was also significantly calmer. Of course, I had to walk on the pier.
Standing on the pier gave a lovely view of the village with its predominantly white wash storefronts on the harbour perimeter.
Pittenweem Harbour
As I stood on the pier, I did not get the panoramic views of Anstruther, [at least not with my height] however, I did have a pleasing viewpoint of the harbour and village.
Pittenweem is a colourful village of winding, narrow streets. It has a wonderful residential waterfront. I walked the entire length of the village’s coastal path.
It was a short visit but certainly worth the walk and stop.
It’s been just over a year since I visited Anstruther and so I thought a trip to that village was overdue. In fact, I want to do a few more trips to the East Neuk coast but that will be for another time and post.
With that thought, I made the trip to Anstruther in June. As I hopped off the bus at Dreel Bridge, I decided to explore a bit of the town before heading to the harbour.
View from Dreel Bridge
High Street West
Map of Anstruther Town centre
What a beautifully kept and colourful town. As I explored the streets, I wondered why I hadn’t done it before. It seems as if I was welcomed by a rainbow of buildings. It was nice. I walked the High Street and the Esplanade.
Walking the Esplanade
Then I took the opportunity to walk the grounds of the community halls, Dreel Halls.
Dreel Halls
Dreel Halls are also known as Anstruther Wester Parish Church. In 1243, a church on this site was dedicated to St. Nicholas. The current structure consists of a sixteenth-century tower and steeple and a mid-nineteenth-century main room, which probably incorporates material from the original medieval church. Today, the church is used as a public hall as part of Dreel Halls.
Medieval Coffin
Near the church are a protected medieval coffin and an early 17th-century grave slab. With the light bulbs framing it, I assumed that it is illuminated at night. I think that that would be a little spooky to see.
As I walked around south of the building, I entered the graveyard and a lookout point.
This was Anstruther Wester Churchyard which is also known as the Commonwealth War burial grounds.
The graveyard contained several 17th-century memorials. (Reference)
What a serene location. I sat there for a while, taking in the stream, beach and surrounding structures.
View from the graveyard
Upon leaving the yard I noticed the design on the side of a house on Elizabeth Place. It was a shell mural. I admired the creativity. It was well done.
Shell Mural
Elizabeth Place to Dreel Bridge
The Bank Hotel, High Street
I continued to walk along the High street as I made my way towards the harbour.
I finally made it to the water. What a vibrant harbour. Although I understood that there were a few commercial boats docked at the harbour, I sensed that it was more of a recreational harbour.
I was drawn to walk the piers. It offered lovely views of the village.
The day was picture-perfect.
Chalmers lighthouse
I continued walking towards the lighthouse which offered amazing views of the boats.
Given the size of the village, I thought it was a large harbour. There was a whole social vibe here.
I stopped at one of the harbour bistros for a drink and to take in the scene that seemed to be unfolding before my eyes. I also did a quick search to see what Visit Scotland had to say about the village.
Anstruther is a charming fishing village in the East Neuk of Fife, popular with day-trippers and holidaymakers. Located south of St Andrews, Anstruther is the largest in a string of pretty, old-fashioned fishing villages along the stretch of Fife coast known as the East Neuk.
Visit Scotland
“Daytrippers and Holidaymakers”. Yes, that is what I had sensed. The social vibe was evident.
After gazing at both my drink and those passing by, I took one more final stroll along the pier. I looked out to the horizon beyond, east towards Pittenweem which would be my next stop.
A few weeks ago I shared a post about Pittencrieff Park in Dunfermline. What was visibly absent from that post was any mention of the Abbey 😊. I just thought it would be better to share my time spent at the Abbey in a separate note. Hence this post.
The Abbey is close to the City Chambers. If you are anywhere near it, it is worth a visit.
Burial groundsThe Abbey and the Burial grounds
As you walk through the centre of town, now city, there is a path that runs through the Abbey’s burial grounds that leads to the majestic structure of Dunfermline Abbey.
When strolling the grounds, you can’t help but wonder how many historic figures would have walked these paths. It has had an amazing past.
Front Entrance, Dunfermline Abbey
A little look into the past you find that: “The foundations of the original church evolved into the Abbey in 1128. Dunfermline Abbey went on to control four burghs, three courts of regality and a large portfolio of lands. A total of eighteen royals, including seven Kings, were buried there from Queen Margaret in 1093 to Robert Stewart, Duke of Albany in 1420. During the fight for Scottish Independence from English rule, between 1296 and 1329, Robert The Bruce had insisted as early as 1314, to be buried in the royal mausoleum in Dunfermline. Robert The Bruce (reigned 1306–29) would ultimately become the last of the seven Scottish Kings to be given this honour in 1329 [Source Wikipedia] ”
What rich history. Quite Magnificent!
Here is a collection of photos taken of the Abbey’s exterior:
As shown below, this wonderful workmanship outside continues inside the Abbey.
A little while ago I took a short trip to St Andrews. I was in need of a small adventure.
St Andrew’s’ Coat of Arms
Everywhere I went the St Andrews coat of arms seemed to guide my path. So I clearly had to stop and take note. However, the reality was I knew I was heading straight for the cathedral.
Deans Court
As I walked by Deans Court I realised that the cathedral was closed for some needed repair and maintenance
St Andrews Cathedral
So I walked towards the castle which was also closed for repairs. I clearly was out of luck! I had to admire both sites from their perimeter and along the coast.
The castle walls and coast
As always, I found a seat with a view!
Seat with a viewView of Cathedral from the castle
The leisurely walk along the coast took me through the harbour and the old town.
It was a short visit but a visit that still made the trip worthwhile.
I recently made a pitstop at Anstruther. I was returning to Edinburgh however my curiosity got the better of me.
I figured I could jump off at the harbour for an hour or two. So that is exactly what I did! Although the stop was right on the harbour, I took a quick detour to embrace the surrounding village streets.
The village streets around the harbour
I was met with lovely narrow alleyways that reflected its history. It was just missing the cobblestones that I have become accustomed to that grace other coastal fishing villages. It was enjoyable all the same.
A perfect monent
I was lucky to capture this moment as I walked the streets. A lady with a coat inscribed:
There Is Nothing Like a Sistah
That alone made my day 🙌🏾
After that encounter, I made my way to the water.
I was really lucky. I had beautiful weather and the harbour was humming
I did not expect the harbour to be so big. It is a formidable size and very much a working harbour.
I love discovering small hamlets and villages near the capital. Granted Pittenweem is still a fair distance but definitely doable in a day.
What a lovely village. I have since learned that the name is derived from Pictish and Scottish Gaelic. “Pit-” represents Pictish pett ‘place, portion of land’, and “-enweem” is Gaelic na h-Uaimh, ‘of the Caves’ in Gaelic, so “The Place of the Caves“!
Walking the village towards the harbour
I missed the caves but that gives me a reason to return in Spring. This fishing village has been in existence since the medieval period. As I made my way to the harbour, I passed the fish market where the daily catch is sold. It made me smile as it dawned on me that this scenario has most likely taken place for centuries. Amazing!
The network of alleyways
I loved meandering along with the multitude of alleyways that all seemed to meet at the harbour.
Pittenweem Harbour
As I got closer to the harbour I was greeted by the local gulls. I was convinced that they smelt fresh food in the air 😆 They were singing for their lunch!
Even on that brisk, cold and windy day, it was a joy to be by the water in this village. As always I found the water therapeutic but on this occasion, the surroundings were also wonderfully picturesque.
A 360 view of Pittenweem Harbour
There was hardly anyone around which was perfect for me but then again, I was out and about in frigid temperatures wandering the eastern coast! So not surprising that visitors were few.
Stacked rocks found at the end of the harbour
At the end of the harbour, I found stacked rocks. While living in Canada I use to think of stacked rocks as a way of telling the next traveler “Hello” while pointing them to a safe course to continue their journey. I always found that comforting. Now as I roam Scotland, I have come to realise that these stacks are more commonplace than I had originally thought. Regardless, I still find them comforting. On this day, the stacked rocks marked a spot for my break! A great spot for my hot beverage and a bite to eat before making the journey home.
After my break, I slowly wandered back through the lanes and quaint stores for my return trip. I found the entire trip invigorating.
